What are the active ingredients in cosmetics, how do they work?

Cosmetics help improve not only appearance, but above all skin health. Active substances play a key role in them, giving individual products specific functions, e.g. moisturizing, exfoliating or regenerating. What are active ingredients in cosmetics, how do they work and why are they so important for skin care?

The role of active ingredients in cosmetics

What are active ingredients in cosmetics? They are active substances that are intended to provide specific, positive care effects. They have been specially selected and added to products because of their ability to have a specific effect on skin condition, e.g. by providing hydration, exfoliation or antioxidant effects. They can be various types of substances, such as vitamins, acids, plant extracts, peptides or antioxidants. The higher a substance is on the INCI list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients), the greater its percentage share in the entire product formula. It is worth remembering that in cosmetics, in addition to active substances, we also find a number of other ingredients, including:

• base substances,
• preservatives,
• auxiliary substances,
• consistency-forming ingredients,
• penetration promoters,
• fragrances,
• dyes.

Types of active ingredients in cosmetics

Active ingredients in cosmetics can work on the skin in various ways, depending on their properties, concentration, and combination with other substances present in the product’s composition. Active substances are most often used to alleviate or solve a specific problem, e.g. dryness, acne, discoloration or signs of aging. Which cosmetic ingredients will help achieve a given goal?

Moisturizing

• Hyaluronic acid – one of its molecules can retain 250 water molecules, thanks to which hyaluronic acid supports skin hydration and smoothing.
• Glycerin – perfectly binds water and helps moisturize the skin, which is why it is often used in cosmetics for dry or dehydrated skin.

Regeneration

• Retinol / retinal – these are vitamin A derivatives that stimulate epidermal cells to work and stimulate the synthesis of collagen responsible for skin elasticity and firmness. They reduce wrinkles, and also have a smoothing and brightening effect.
• Peptides – have the ability to stimulate fibroblasts to produce collagen, which results in improved skin firmness and elasticity. They can also gently weaken the muscles responsible for mimic wrinkles, acting in a manner comparable to botulinum toxin.

Antioxidants

• Vitamin C – protects the skin against free radicals, which can accelerate the skin aging process and cause cell damage. It also has a brightening effect and helps reduce discoloration.
• Vitamin E – has antioxidant properties, which protects the skin against the harmful effects of external factors. It combines perfectly with vitamin C and helps to stabilize it.

Acne

• AHA acids – have exfoliating, smoothing, cleansing and brightening effects. They help unclog pores and prevent the re-formation of blackheads. These include glycolic, lactic and mandelic acid.
• BHA acids – these primarily include salicylic acid, known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. It gently exfoliates dead skin and helps regulate sebum secretion.

Discoloration

• Azelaic acid – blocks the tyrosinase enzyme, which is responsible for the process of creating discoloration. It is particularly effective in brightening pink post-inflammatory scars that can appear on the skin as a result of acne.
• Niacinamide – supports the care of skin with discoloration by reducing the migration of pigment from melanocytes. It also inhibits transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and has a smoothing effect.

It is worth remembering that individual active ingredients in cosmetics can simultaneously work on several problems. For example, lactic acid is antibacterial and regulates skin pH. At higher concentrations it has an exfoliating effect, while at lower concentrations it improves epidermal hydration. Find out more about what GMP principles are in the cosmetics industry.