The role of active ingredients in cosmetics: How do they work, and what should you consider when selecting raw materials?

Active ingredients in cosmetics are the true heart of every formula. They are what give products their specific functions, ranging from deep hydration and regeneration to anti-aging effects. The stability of the formulation, as well as the product’s ultimate effectiveness and its value to the consumer, depends on them. What should you pay attention to when selecting cosmetic raw materials? Which regulations are the most important? We answer these questions.

How do active ingredients work and how can they be precisely matched to the function of a cosmetic product?

The CDMO (Contract Development and Manufacturing Organization) model is based on comprehensive cooperation between a pharmaceutical, biotechnology, or medical company and a specialized external organization acting as a technological and manufacturing partner. The process begins with a detailed analysis and the development of the formulation. Once it has been finally approved, the cooperation focuses on process engineering, enabling the project to be efficiently transferred from the laboratory stage to industrial-scale production. At the initial stage of contract cosmetics manufacturing, experts precisely select active ingredients to give the product the desired properties, such as hydration, regeneration, or skin protection.

The effectiveness of active ingredients in cosmetics depends on their chemical structure, concentration, and ability to penetrate the epidermal barrier. The most important groups of substances include:

• acids (AHA, BHA, PHA) – AHAs even out skin tone, BHA (salicylic acid) cleanses pores, and PHAs gently exfoliate and moisturize;
• antioxidants – vitamins C and E neutralize free radicals and work best as a duo;
• peptides – act as messengers that stimulate collagen production or accelerate regeneration;
• humectants and soothing substances – they intensely bind water molecules in the epidermis, maintaining its hydration (hyaluronic acid and glycerin), and soothe irritation (panthenol, aloe, and allantoin).

Stability and testing – why is raw material verification the key to success?

Precise selection of cosmetic raw materials is only half the journey toward success, namely the creation of a high-quality product. The real test for research and development (R&D) departments in cosmetics is ensuring the durability and stability of the formulation. Active ingredients in cosmetics are often characterized by high reactivity and sensitivity to external factors. For this reason, all raw materials must undergo rigorous selection and thorough testing for microbiological purity, chemical stability, and safety of use. Raw material verification guarantees that the final formula will not only be effective, but also fully predictable in its performance.

Designing a cosmetic product also requires taking into account synergy (the mutual enhancement of effects, e.g. vitamins C and E) and antagonism between ingredients. Improper combinations, such as high concentrations of retinol and AHA acids, may damage the hydrolipid barrier and cause irritation.

Consumer requirements – how is Generation Z shaping the beauty market?

The modern market is undergoing a fundamental transformation driven by a new purchasing power – Generation Z. For this group, choosing a product is a statement of values and an element of caring for well-being. The selection of cosmetic raw materials and active ingredients in cosmetics must therefore take into account the fact that, for “Gen Zers,” a cosmetic is a tool of self-acceptance, not just a product. This generation’s purchasing decisions are driven by ethics and the expectation of full transparency, which means that building loyalty requires brands to be authentic at every stage of production.

R&D outsourcing in cosmetics – entrust raw material selection to CDMO specialists

R&D outsourcing in cosmetics – entrust raw material selection to CDMO specialists

Modern cosmetics manufacturing is a multi-stage process that requires not only creativity in developing formulations, but above all a powerful analytical and legal infrastructure. In the face of stringent regulatory changes and the growing expectations of Generation Z, the pace of work on product reformulation and stabilization is becoming a challenge that exceeds the resources of many brands. In response to these difficulties, the optimal solution is to choose contract manufacturing in the CDMO (Contract Development and Manufacturing Organization) model. This system combines advanced formulation design with comprehensive regulatory support, guaranteeing brands legal security and the ability to respond rapidly to market trends.

Cooperation with an experienced CDMO partner allows brand owners to transfer the burden of monitoring complex regulations and coordinating advanced clinical studies to external experts. As a result, companies can fully focus on building their marketing strategy and scaling their business, while being assured that their products are safe, innovative, and fully compliant with current legal requirements.

By choosing to work with Eubioco, a partner operating in accordance with rigorous GMP (Good Manufacturing Practice) standards, you gain comprehensive support in areas such as:

• Full R&D support, from the initial brief to the development of the optimal formulation;
• Strict supplier qualification: we guarantee the highest purity and transparent origin of every raw material used;
• Regulatory security: our specialists continuously monitor changes in EU regulations, eliminating the risk of using substances prohibited in cosmetics in 2025. We also ensure compliance with upcoming restrictions planned for the coming years, including those concerning microplastics in cosmetics as well as new limits for preservatives and active ingredients in cosmetics;

We invite companies that focus on uncompromising quality and reliable research and development support to work with us.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

1. Euromonitor (2019). Gen Z Beauty Consumers in Europe: Capturing the Next Generation. [online] Available at: https://www.euromonitor.com/gen-z-beauty-consumers-in-europe-capturing-the-next-generation/report [accessed online: 04.05.2026]
2. District Sanitary and Epidemiological Station in Dzierżoniów. (2025). BAN ON THE USE OF TPO from 1 September 2025 [online] Available at: https://www.gov.pl/web/psse-dzierzoniow/zakaz-stosowania-tpo-od-1-wrzesnia-2025 [accessed online: 04.05.2026]
3. Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/996 of 3 April 2024 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council as regards the use in cosmetic products of Vitamin A, Alpha-Arbutin and Arbutin and certain substances with potential endocrine-disrupting properties (OJ EU L 2024/996, 04.04.2024).
4. Commission Regulation (EU) 2025/877 of 12 May 2025 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council as regards the use in cosmetic products of certain substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction (OJ EU L 2025/877, 13.05.2025).
5. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products (OJ EU L 342, 22.12.2009, p. 59, as amended).